Tinerhir was a great little town. One of the best
hotel rooms we had - large room, bed turned down in the evening
with rose petals on the sheet, large swimming pool (felt good
after the desert), Bedouin tent eating area, easy walk to the
There are lush farmlands using the Todra River for
irrigation. All farming is still done by hand labor.
The fields had alfalfa (for the donkeys), fig, henna, and date
palms. As we walked through the fields and talked with
some of the workers, I also got a good picture of the
There was a large Jewish population but most now live in
Israel. Some come to visit and keep the buildings from
The medina was the next stop. At a carpet store we had
a great demonstration of the tea ceremony performed by one of
the Blue People whose ancestors came from Timbuktu. The
name came from the color of clothes they wore. There are
about 700,000 Blue People in Morocco.
The Todra Valley is very lush with date palms, olive and
almond groves and citrus trees. There are also many
villages and some beautiful homes overlooking the river.
The Todra Gorge
(history page) is 15 km from Tinerhir.
There was lunch (tajine again) at a restaurant in the gorge so
I had some free time to witness the local people having family
picnics on the river bank. Our group was then driven
further up the gorge and allowed to walk back to the
restaurant. Nice exercise after lunch.
Four of our group elected to accompany the guide to the local
hamman for a traditional Islamic sweat bath. From
having someone wash you then laying on a hot marble floor and
have someone walk on your back, to sweating all your pores open
- great experience.
I instead had a great swim before sunset. We went to a
local home to have henna designs applied to our palms.
Another great experience. The leaves of the henna plant
are ground into a powder, mixed with water to a paste
consistency. The henna paste is put on the palm, then
heated over charcoal until dry. Then a solution of lemon,
pepper and garlic is applied. We were advised not to wash
our hand for 24 hours. Our henna did not wear off until 3
The next day we made a trip to the
Gorges du Dades and the
Dades River Valley. Again villages on the river bank and
lush date palms and other vegetation was seen.
In Aït Oudinar we visited a Berber family who made
pizza in an earthen stove. We were told that her husband
worked in construction in Ouarazazate. She had 4 sons,
youngest is 20 y, and at home. Three sons are working and
living in Spain - 2 on work contracts and one illegally
working. One daughter at home, Fatima who is 23
Our lunch is at a local Iman house with his wife and 2
children. The Iman's brother showed us how to eat
couscous, chicken and vegetable by rolling the food into a ball
and pushing it into the mouth. It's the traditional way of
eating. No utensils allowed.
--> Ouarzazate (about 150
km from Tinerhir)